Rucksack
Day Pack
Hip Bag
Money Holders
Documents
Rucksack
Day Pack
Hip Bag
Money Holders
Documents
Only carry one serious bag, and perhaps(?) a day pack, if you really need it for your valuables. You will find ways to heap your day bag so full that it may weigh an extra 6 or 7 kilos! Just think what would happen if you brought an extra carry-on bag!
After reading the sections below, if you decide that you do not already have a bag that is appropriate for your travels, then you will want to go out and buy one. It is an important investment, not only in money but in the future enjoyment of your travels; in this respect, a really good travel rucksack is an excellent value for the money. Consult any books you can find on the subject and shop around a lot! There are many models available, but most shops carry only a few brands.
If you already have a good rucksack, it may just be good enough for traveling. It doesn't have to fit all of the criterion I list below, but if you want to save money, your old rucksack may be able to carry you through with a few adjustments. It also gives you that "well-traveled" look and makes you less of a target for thieves. Compare it to the features listed below and decide if you can get along with its shortcomings. Is it reliable enough? If your old rucksack is about to fall apart, it most certainly will at the worst possible time On the Road. Maybe it's time for a new one.
Size
Small! See Traveling Light. You will fill to capacity (and beyond) whatever bag you choose to carry. The size of the bag determines the amount of weight you will be carrying around with you for the entire trip. Buy the bag first, then decide what will fit into it. You can try to keep in mind that you will be picking up new items along the way, but you will still fill it to capacity. Several of the newer bags on the market are expandable, and I discuss this below.
The best rule of thumb I can think of is "airline carry-on size". You may not, in fact, want to carry your bag on the plane, but if it fits under an airline seat, it is much more likely to fit somewhere inside of a bus or train. If you really (really!) need the extra space, use one of the travel rucksacks that are a size or two bigger than "carry-on", but don't just go for the biggest bag you can find!
Officially FAA carry-on size is 22 x 14 x 9 inches (56 x 36 x 23 cm.) = 2880 cubic inches (ci) or (divide by 61) 47 liters (l). Some airlines define it to be a total of up to 45 inches (115 cm) for the sum of the three dimensions. Notice that the standard is a parallelogram, with no extruding pockets , dangling cups or bags, and no big bulges in the middle or top. That should also suggest to you a plain rectangular travel pack. Any good pack should specifically state its measurements and capacity in cubic inches or liters.
Size is not the same as weight. A 50 liter bag could weigh 10 kilos, or it could weigh 20 kilos. Mine usually weighs a moderate 13 to 17 kilos. Although I carry a small bag, it is not exactly light, because I also take great pains to squeeze as much compact gear as I can pack into that bag. The benefit of small is that you can easily stow it in the bus with you; the benefit of light, is that it is easier to carry. With poor packing, you can have a huge bag that is lighter than my small one. It is as easy to carry, but impossible to stow. Note that many cheap air tickets allow you only 20 kilos (44 pounds) of checked luggage. If they want to be difficult, they can make you pay plenty extra for an "overweight" rucksack.
Note that if you decide that you just cannot live without the convenience, or don't want to miss a single opportunity to camp out, and opt for a tent, sleeping bag, thermal pad, stove, fuel, and food, you are now up into the 80 to 95 liter category and above, and it is going to weigh in at 24 to 30 kilos (52 to 66 lbs!) If you think this is best for you, then by all means go ahead. You will regret it and I told you so!
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My Packs
When I first started traveling, I had an old frame pack which I used for backpack camping in the US. It was good for that purpose but a hell of a lot of trouble to haul around on buses and trains in Korea and Japan.
My next rucksack was the closest to my heart, carrying me through three campaigns, before it gave up the ghost. This was a heavy-canvas top-loading Japanese hiking bag I found in Tokyo. The design was simple but it had a variable size. If you filled it only half full, you could collapse the unused part and secure the flap at the bottom, making the bag only about 16" (40 cm) high. When filled to capacity, the flap covered only the top of the bag making it about twice as big.
I was able to use this feature to great advantage over the course of long trips. During its third and longest trip (one and a half years in Central and South America), I ended up re-sewing all of it's seams and replacing most of the hardware with heavy stitches. I spent so much time at it, and collected so many sewing materials, that I got into the side-business of sewing up other people's packs, bags, and even shoes! The bag made it home, but only barely, and I later tossed it out.
I went through another (Japanese) top-loading hiking rucksack before deciding that it was just too much trouble to find things in the bottom of the bag. Now I have switched to the new soft-luggage style travel pack, a rectangular design with a reliable zipper all the way around. The evolution of these traveler-specific products follows the evolution of the travel scene itself. Fifteen years ago, nobody even worried about locking their rucksack! Now, it is essential.
My last and current pack is the smallest Eagle Creek (US) travel bag. It is "carry-on" size, and is advertised at 2880 ci, 47 liters. It is a little bigger than bags I have carried in the past because I wanted to take along a light sleeping bag on the last trip. I have a nice LaFauma (France) bag of similar design, a little lighter construction and material, which contains about 2400 ci -- less than 40 liters -- and also an ICI (Japan) hiking rucksack with which I have made extended trips, and it has a volume of only 36 liters.
If you can get by with a 32 or 36 liter bag, you will be a champion of traveling light. If you carry less than 50 liters, you are as miserly as I am on space, and you will get comments about the small size of your luggage (Good on 'ya!) I must tell you that many travelers carry much bigger bags -- 60, 70, 90 litres! -- well, not everyone can travel really light, but it's worth a go.
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Use
A travel pack is used quite differently from a camping or backpacking pack. In fact, many travelers seldom carry their rucksack farther than from the hotel to the bus station, to the next hotel. When going for a short hike while traveling, or even an overnight trip, I usually carry only a day pack. Unlike hiking in North America, in most parts of the world you finish the day at a small village or hut where shelter and perhaps even food are available. For cold weather trekking or real camping out, you still may need to carry plenty of gear and food for long distances, and the comfort and carryablilty of your rucksack will be essential. For everyday traveling, I rarely use more than one of the shoulder straps to carry my rucksack.
On safari camping trips in Africa, I would go for over a week with just a small day bag and a sleeping bag tied on. I marveled at how easily I got along with so little gear. "What is all that other stuff that I carry around with me all the time?" I would ask. Of course all that other stuff is essential for a long trip, but books, mail, warm clothing, diving gear, and other things can be left behind on short excursions.
Design
Frame Pack or Rucksack? -- External (aluminium tube) frame packs are good for expeditions and fine if you need to carry around large amounts of camping gear, but they are not the best for travel. Aside from encouraging you to bring along far too much gear, the main drawback of a frame pack is that it is cumbersome and will not fit inside of public transportation. It ends up on the roof or the baggage compartment where the chances of it being molested or stolen are higher.
Considering the many fine designs of soft packs available today, I can only recommend against an external frame pack, unless you are mounting a serious hiking expedition. If you do take a frame pack, you may want to take an extra set of clevis pins and rings. These are the pins that connect the straps and hip belt to the frame; you will never find extras if you lose or break one.
Top-loading vs. Suitcase-design -- Two problems with the top-loading hiking rucksacks are that they are almost impossible to lock and it can be a lot of trouble to find things in the bottom of the bag. Their original advantages were better carryability and tougher construction. They still make good traveling bags but the new packs for travelers are almost as tough and carryable, so if you buy a new bag for traveling, I recommend getting something you can lock.
Nowdays you can buy special travel rucksacks which are quite sturdy and more convenient for traveling than the top-loading hiking bags. They have a rectangular design with a zipper all the way around. They are lockable, much easier to pack and unpack, and the current designs are well suited to any kind of travel. These travel packs should have some kind of internal frame to keep the shape while carrying and transporting; this is usually metal or fiberglass bars that fit in the bottom; if you can remove them, all the better for storage or mailing.
They come in varying complexities of shoulder straps and hip belts, all of which stuff or zip away behind a back flap. This makes them more convenient for transporting on airplanes and anywhere else, since all those straps tend to get hung up on things. There is always a soft handle on top and usually a long shoulder strap. I leave the long shoulder strap at home. Another advantage is that, when all zipped up, it is a much more respectable piece of luggage to carry into a nice hotel or up to an immigration and customs station.
Side Pockets and Straps -- Side pockets are great for backpack camping trips into the mountains; they keep essential items handy during the day. For traveling -- they are a liability! Side pockets are a source of amusement and revenue for the people who ride on top of the bus along with your rucksack. Don't put anything in them but dirty socks when storing or checking your luggage. Better yet, get a bag with no side pockets; they only get in the way when stuffing into overhead racks or under the seat. A flat front pocket is useful for stowing extra books that you can easily pull out and repack, or carry if necessary.
Many rucksacks have little 'tabs' on the side that allow you to strap extra gear on the outside. Don't leave home with lots of things strapped on like this; they easily get lost, stolen, and are in the way. At some point, however, you may find a need to strap something on for long treks; you can carry extra straps, or just cut some lengths of nylon cord to do the job. I don't recommend strapping a sleeping bag outside of your pack as a regular practice. Try to fit it inside, where it is not a temptation to thieves.
Expandability -- An expandable pack can be used to great advantage over a long trip, or it can just be an excuse to carry as much gear as possible. If you leave home with the expansion area unused, you will have a nice compact bag that can expand when needed to hold extra purchases, a sleeping bag, or food supplies for long forays. If you leave all those things there for the rest of the trip, you will have a huge bag to carry around all the time. Expandability is not a necessary feature in a rucksack, but if you find a bag you like with this feature, it may be worth the few extra considerations (and ounces) to have that room when you need it. You could just settle for a flat satchel pocket on the outside that folds down flat when empty but can hold an extra jacket or two when needed.
Expandable rucksacks are making a comeback. The majority of them are still top-loading hiking bags. The top-flap adjusts and the bag collapses into a smaller size. Examples of regular and expanded sizes are 37 to 48 liters, 57 to 72 liters, and (gulp!) 74 to 98 liters. The expansion area is a seamless extension of the same pack material, which makes it just as safe, sturdy, and leakproof as the collapsed pack.
Some new travel bags also have expansion areas. The ones I have seen have a zipper in the bottom which "drops down" an extra section of material, making the bottom of the bag lower. This material is thinner than the pack material and easier to rip or cut (accidentally or on purpose). You would also want to put another lock on this extra zipper, and it is one more place to leak. The sizes I have seen are 57 to 68 liters and 73 to 96 liters, both made by Jansport (US).
Lockability
It is highly recommended that you be able to lock your rucksack. The simplest way is to pass a small lock through the big holes in the zipper pulls. This is adequate, but in countries where experts abound, small fingers can easily pry open a small opening and drag out whatever is near the top. See if you can run a lock through the even smaller holes where the pulls join the zip; this keeps it completely closed.
Some travel rucksacks now come with very efficient lockable zippers. Each zipper pull has a hasp ring which fits into a slot in the other pull. Inserting your lock fixes the two pulls tightly together with no leeway whatsoever. This is an excellent invention and you should look for it on any new rucksack you buy. Some bags have a tiny lock built into the zipper pull itself. I have never been convinced of their durability, and the lock is usually something you could pick with a paper clip. I use the smallest Chinese-made padlocks, purchased overseas.
If your bag has only a draw string at the top, you will probably not be able to lock it. I've had a couple of bags like this and was able to pass a padlock through two of the large holes used for the draw string. It would only partially keep fingers out, but it might have kept a few honest people honest along the way. If you are buying a new bag, get one with a zipper instead -- a very sturdy zipper. They seem to have finally learned how to make zippers that will take serious abuse, but if yours breaks, it will be difficult to fix -- you may have to find a new rucksack!
Slash-Proof? -- 01/2003:
I am not yet aware of any serious backpack that is made of "slash-proof"
material, but it is bound to happen soon. The people at
PacSafe
(Outpac Designs, Ltd.) currently sell two products of interest, which
have been recommended. The PacSafe
is a heavy wire-mesh "bag" (several sizes) that fits around your
backpack while you're wearing it, or to lock it to something sturdy.
Their TravelSafe is a small bag made of a material which
contains a wire mesh imbedded in it.
Here's a page of their Whole Product Line.
The largest one is designed to hold a laptop computer. It's
interesting because I think before long someone will construct a
good, full-sized rucksack made of such material. Let me know!
Yup! Pac-Safe Did It! 10/2005 --
Carryability
Someone once noted that suitcases were never intended for people to carry by themselves. There is only so far you can carry any hand-held bag before your hand, arm, or side muscles give out. Porters in third world countries inevitably carry them on their heads, or toss a rope around to use as a tumpline across their foreheads. Historically, a suitcase is just a slim version of the old steamer trunk, which no one was ever expected to carry by hand.
Some people have tried carrying bags with a single long shoulder strap like those on athletic carry-all bags. They regret it! There is no reasonable way to carry such a bag for any distance before your shoulder is sore, your hip or leg is sore where the bag bounces against you, and ultimately you strain a muscle in your groin or side. Forget it!
The double shoulder straps found on all hiking and travel rucksacks are the way to go. They hold the bag snug against your back and distribute the weight. Personally, I only use the hip belt when trekking, and am glad to be able to keep it zipped out of the way. For this reason, I look for good wide shoulder straps that don't dig into my shoulders, and the smaller the hip belt, the better. But I'm a big guy and I always pack light. When it comes to trekking, I'm glad of a good hip belt to distribute the weight off of my shoulders. If you plan on carrying a large weight proportional to your size, or doing a lot of serious hiking in the mountains with your rucksack, make sure the hip belt is comfortable and fits you correctly to ride over your hips. If you won't be doing any actual trekking, forget the really serious (and cumbersome) hip belts!
Mountaineering rucksacks can have very complex (and of course heavy) "suspension systems" involving the shoulder straps, hip belt, "posture" and "lumbar" pads (against your back), and literally dozens of adjustable little straps. In general, you don't need all this just for traveling. If you will be climbing K-2, you will want the best, but even on those expeditions, people got along fine with simple straps and a hip belt not too many years ago. If your present rucksack has lots of these additional devices, see if some of them are removable, and experiment to see which ones you can live without.
Waterproof
No bag I've seen is completely waterproof. The best you can do is heavy duty canvas-like cordura 'pack cloth'. The zippers themselves are not really waterproof so it is useful to have a flap of material that 'sort of' protects the zipper on the outside. Most bags will eventually soak through in a downpour or if left sitting in water. You may think that the floor of your hotel room is a pretty dry place, but just wait until the monsoon!
I always carry a couple of heavy-duty plastic garbage bags to put over the bag in an emergency, like putting it on top of a bus during a rainstorm. This is usually adequate, and you can even cut holes so that pack straps fit through it for carrying. If you may be carrying your pack around for quite a while in the rain, waterproof pack covers are available at some camping outlets. They are reasonably light (4 to 5 oz.), relatively small and usually elasticized to slip quickly over the bag. I have two of these for backpacking and they work quite well, but I have never rationalized carrying one on an international trip. It's just one more very useful item that didn't make the "cut".
Rucksack Availability
Good quality hiking or travel bags are not commonly sold in Third World countries. You will be able to purchase reasonable quality hiking bags (if not travel bags) in Hong Kong, Singapore, Nairobi, Mexico, and many South American cities. In addition, you can rent equipment in places where trekking is popular such as Nepal and Kenya. Surprisingly, I found my LaFauma travel pack at the big Sarinah department store in Jakarta, Indonesia. I paid full price, but it is a great bag. Just trying it on there in the store finally convinced me to give up my top-loader.
Pack at least one day-pack, and preferably two (I said pack, not carry). You will use them often for hikes, shopping trips, and short excursions which may even last several days. When I went to Burma for the requisite 7 days, I left my rucksack behind in Bangkok and was thankful to get around with just a thin day bag.
There is quite a trade-off with day packs. Since they often must be stuffed into your main rucksack when traveling, big bulky ones are a nuisance. Personally, I look for a bag that is reasonably well-made of a lightweight material, thinner than the rucksack material. I avoid those with lots of heavy leather, bulky shoulder straps and hip belts. I usually cut the hip strap off, if any. You can buy light, cheap day bags in most countries, but look at the quality of the seams and how the straps are attached.
There is nothing wrong with a more heavy-duty day-pack, and I've had a couple of lighter ones split their seams on me when I overloaded them. I just don't like the extra bulk in my rucksack of those hefty day-packs with the heavy leather bottoms and bulky straps. If you plan to constantly carry a day bag, even when traveling (to carry your camera equipment and other precious and fragile items), then a heavier day-pack is certainly a good choice, but I end up packing my empty day-pack(s) into the rucksack when I'm on the Road, and that's why I don't like anything very bulky.
You should get a day-bag that closes with double zippers that can be locked together. You won't find hasp locks on these little bags but holes on the zipper pulls will do. I often use day bags to leave some of my luggage or purchases behind while I travel around a country for a few weeks. For this reason it is good to have an extra small padlock to leave with that bag. You can buy good Chinese padlocks in most large cities.
Several of the travel rucksacks sold today come with a removable day pack that zips onto the outside of the pack. The day pack is usually flat and rectangular. If you will always be carrying a day pack to keep your valuables, then this is a good system. You attach it to the main rucksack for the hike to the station, then zip it off and keep it with you on board the train or bus. If you are tempted to use this day-pack as an extension of your pack for ordinary items, then you will have a bag that no longer fits conveniently under the seat. Since I limit myself to the single rucksack, carrying my few valuables in a waist pack, I choose a separate day pack of lighter material -- my current day packs weigh just six ounces (170 g). They travel inside the rucksack and only come out for use instead of the rucksack for excursions.
In addition to the day pack I use for side trips, and perhaps another that I picked up somewhere for storing luggage, I usually have one or two very thin nylon day bags. They are cheap, flimsy, and extremely light. For shopping trips I can wad one up into my pocket until it is needed. I also use them for organizing my clothing in the rucksack, so they take up no appreciable room. They don't stand very much abuse, which is why I usually carry an extra one on long trips. In a pinch you can lend one to a friend for a day trip, or use one to store (hang) food up off the floor in the bush (which means every cheap room that comes with the standard ravenous insects and vermin).
These look like the old 'fanny packs', but are designed to be strapped over your hip. I used to carry a small leather hip pouch which had to be looped into my belt. When waist packs came into vogue, I tried a couple of them on my next trip and would never again travel without one! In fact, on long trips I carry a spare one with me. On most days it replaces a day pack and is extremely handy. Many people get along quite well without one, but I can suggest that you at least give it a try. If you are used to carrying a handbag, a waist pack is a safer alternative.
In my waist bag I normally carry my small camera, notebooks, film, a pocket knife, cap, flashlight, and a little cloth pouch that keeps small items organized (scissors, keys, pills, etc). I can usually fit in a guide book, monocular, or a small folding umbrella, as well. In essence, all my (few) valuables and daily needs can fit into this little waist bag, so I don't often need to carry a day bag. Even if you do carry a day pack, the waist bag is very useful and little trouble. When sitting in crowded buses, it swings easily from one side to the other, or right in front where it is visible and out of the way.
It is easy to buy cheap waist packs which are flimsy and end up carrying little. The ones made of stiff plasticized materials are to be avoided; they soon crack and fall apart. Leather ones are alright if not too stiff, but you must protect them from mold and rot. I use soft nylon ones with a reasonably flat profile but three full-width sections that expand a bit. A double zip is best so that you can wear it on either hip and still keep the zip in the front. It is worthwhile shopping around to find a good one. I see that Eagle Creek (US) now makes a fine one, the Field Pack; it is small, soft, made of sturdy coated nylon, and has three compartments that can hold plenty of stuff.
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The Bottomless Pouch
One day in Sumatra, I was out walking in the hills with a few European friends. When the sun got too bright, I took my baseball cap out of my hip pouch. We spotted some animals across a valley but couldn't tell what they were; I pulled my little monocular out of the hip pouch and everyone had a good look at some common goats. Later on, we found a small cave in the rocks, but were unable to proceed until I had produced my flashlight from the hip pouch. Upon exiting the cave, there was a good rain shower going on, and I reached into my now well-respected hip-pouch and pulled out my Japanese folding umbrella. My friends were impressed to the point of accusing me of being too well prepared! How could I enjoy the excitement of each situation, if I was prepared for everything?!
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This is where you keep you passport, cash, travelers checks, credit cards, and any other valuable documents that will fit in. It is always best to keep these valuables next to your skin, and keep them in front of you.
Keep your money and other paper documents organized in a single plastic folding case similar to what you get with your travelers checks; one with a foldover flap is better for protecting them. Put this in your money pouch with your passport, credit cards, etc. I usually keep a few passport photos (in a tiny zip-lock bag) in with my credit card so they are always with me when I need some. I also have a spare (third!) key to my rucksack lock in there somewhere.
I use a money belt because I feel it is safest; it straps around my waist, under my trousers. Mine has a separate section for my passport and another for credit cards. A plastic coated model is best because you can easily sweat through the material and damage your travelers checks or passport. (Many travelers checks will suddenly display a large "VOID" across them when they become wet. You can easily exchange them as soon as you get to a bona fide agent for your checks, where ever that is.) I wrap everything in separate plastic bags to protect them. Sometimes the little bag the airlines put your silverware in is just the right size; a 'zip-lock' closure is a bonus.
Many people find a money belt uncomfortable, and it does take a while to get used to. The most popular alternative is a "passport bag" that you wear around your neck, hanging down on your chest or abdomen. I have tried these and personally, I find them just as sweaty and uncomfortable as a money belt, but they will not bind your waist, and are easier to get at. They are also more obvious and easier to steal. If you use one, run a strong length of wire entirely through the neck strap, to prevent it from being cut; they never sell them with such a precaution.
There are many variations on money pouches, including those you strap around your leg, hang under your arm or from your bra. Some people sew an inside pocket into the leg or waist of their trousers; and there is the original money belt, a real belt with a zippered opening in the back (but the zippers tend to be flimsy). Most of these are very light to pack and only good for carrying small amounts of flat items like money. If you see one you like, give it a try. It is sometimes reassuring to have a small stash of cash and travelers checks in a second location, especially in theft-prone areas or crossing borders with undeclared funds. I have an elastic one that fits around my calf like an athletic support, but I seldom use it because it is hot and uncomfortable. Be sure to protect travelers checks with a plastic bag of some kind.
I sometimes take a spare money belt on a long trip; good ones are very hard to find overseas. I have had them wear out (zippers, straps, fasteners) and it is not something you want to go without for very long. I usually end up doing some sewing to keep mine in good repair. Make sure you keep those seams intact!
Handbag
A woman's handbag or shoulder purse is not very convenient when traveling, unless it is big enough and strong enough to use as your day pack. Otherwise, it is just one extra piece of luggage to bog you down. If you do take a small handbag, keep it inside of your day pack so you only have one thing to carry (and protect). A waist pack is a very good alternative.
Wallet and Change Purse
This is where you carry your ready cash for the day. Since it should hold nothing more than some money, you don't need the bulky wallet you use at home. A simple billfold with one or no pockets is sufficient. You could just use a money clip, or a small thin bag. Bills tend to become pretty grotty if left loose in your pockets.
In some countries you need a good supply of coins for buses and such. It is best to keep coins separate from folding money so you don't flash your cash every time you pay bus fare. I find that coins eventually wear a hole in my trouser pockets, so I use a coin purse or other coin holder to keep them organized and prevent them from falling out when I sit down.
Among the documents that you should accumulate for your journey, are a passport, visas, vaccination certificate, driving licenses, birth certificate, credit cards, student card, membership cards, other identification cards, and passport photos. Most all of these will go into your money pouch. You will be able to get new passport photos along the way; you may have to go to a photo studio, but it still won't cost much. Many film shops in big cities now have instant cameras for passport photos and will do it in a few minutes. Much cheaper, and still acceptable, are photos from self-service photo booths in more modern cities. When you do need some, get plenty to last you for a while.
Business Cards -- If you already have business cards, take some along to exchange with people you would like to hear from again, or just to impress local officials. If you don't have any, you can have some professional ones made up for a small investment (the minimum is usually 500 cards). And nowdays, anyone with a home computer and printer can print up their own cards on pre-perforated card-stock with a small amount of effort! They can say anything you want: "Traveling Mother Extraordinaire", "President and CEO, Johnson International Enterprises", or "Hopeless Vagabond", depending on whom you intend to impress with them. My main use for old business cards has been on returning home, to impress US customs officials that I am not a completely sleazy vagrant.
Randy's Travel Page...
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